The following is the account of a German backpacker who ventured into Burma crossing the border at Tachilek. We have not edited the text, except for linguistic amendments. We publish this report because it highlights a form of forced labour that can be seen throughout Burma, it is an honest appraisal of what a backpacker witnessed and thought, and it will help to futher the debate on tourism to Burma.

We do not support all the actions and views of the backpacker. We do not know if the hotel that the backpacker stayed at was linked to the military and in general backpackers who cross the border just to renew their Thai visas are more likely to benefit the Junta than the people of Burma. However, unlike the Junta we will not stifle debate and will publish views which are contrary to ours. We hope that other people of all viewpoints will contact Voices For Burma with their tales and opinions…….

The trip to Burma I undertook was a very short one, but it will remain with me forever. The impression it made on me is enormous.

I started the trip in Mae Sai, Thailand, near the Burmese border. The first thing to do was get to the Burmese side and obtain a 2 week visa. Eventually this was easy.

The immigration guy told me there was a car waiting on the other side that had, coincidentally, exactly one space left, and was heading for Keng Tung. After 10-15 minutes on the Burmese side the car suddenly drove next to me (and my tout which was selling a trip to longnecks nearby) and after some bargaining we took off.

What struck me on the 163 km long road was the deforestation of the area - almost no trees left. Also, there was not a single road marker, sign post, or side road. The road went straight to Keng Tung. You could not go wrong. The driver was very 'rational' by the way. Obviously he had dealt with tourists before. There was almost no conversation between us. He was not to be trusted.

When we arrived in Keng Tung I told him that I wanted to go to the Noi Yee hotel. He kept on pushing me go to 'Harrys', mentioned in the LP which also offering trips and treks. After declining his offers all the time, he eventually went.

What struck me in Keng Tung:
There is almost no traffic in town, except for motorbikes and the occasional car or truck.
80% of cars are old white Toyota corolla station cars. Some cars are the expensive pick-ups.
On my last night a white Mercedes or American brand car drove by me in the rain, at least at 70 km / hour. There went a drug lord for sure. It was so out of place, the car was too expensive and driving way too fast way too close to me.
Some people burn candles to have light at night. The government does not supply electricity, or for only a couple of hours a week. Not everybody can afford a generator.
Thai markets look wonderfully clean compared to the big one in Keng Tung. however, the meat fish and vegetable section was rather small and the difference in food was less. For example there were fewer different kinds of fruit.
Burmese people are the friendliest that I have met in my life, even military ('normal soldiers').

On my way back to Tachilek I saw numerous groups of teenagers digging on the side of the road. I arrived on a weekend day and left on a weekday, so that explains why they were not working when I came. There were probably 150-200 kids (15-18 years old) digging, and another 150-200 military accompanying them. This is the corvee I had read about. The strange thing is, some groups were in their lunch break: the boys and the military men mixed and the hierarchy did not seem extremely strict (but the military would not dig).

Lots of military men don’t seem to have a choice but to go in the army. Unemployment is very high. In Keng Tung there is no supermarket, only some small shops. So instead of being without job they go in the army and fight for a cause they do not believe in, only to make some money. I did not speak to any high rank officials but the military I saw seemed to be just as surprised, happy and friendly at the presence of a foreigner.

That is also why more people should visit Burma. The locals are very happy with you and eager to make contact. Of course, responsible tourism is important, but most important is contact. Personally I don’t believe in a boycott. Even if it would work in theory in practise it is simply impossible. Getting nobody, no tourist, no business man, no government, to have contact with Burma is unlikely to happen.

Rather it is much easier to make contact and the contact will give local Burmese people a different view on the world. It will be a reminder they are not left alone. It will help them believe change is possible. They will believe in an alternative, and only when they see an alternative, change will come.